Day five found us preparing for two flights, covering around 2,600km; a prospect no one looks forward to. What we were looking forward to was a few days by the sea, the Caspian Sea, in the Mangystau region that makes up the western-most portion of Kazakhstan. With temperatures creeping up, the prospect of a nice breeze off of the sea was certainly enticing, though I was excited enough as it was. Who doesn’t get excited at the prospect of visiting the seaside after all!
I will gloss over the flights. Flights are flights. I will say they were both very good, with nice food as well as clean and modern interiors. We flew first with Scat Airlines, followed by Air Astana. I will also say that with a window seat I was afforded some incredible views of Kazakhstan. The landscape of the country is remarkably varied, we flew over lush green steppe, arid desert and pure white salt flats; to say nothing for the lakes and rivers.
Upon arriving at Aktau Airport we were greeted by a small fleet of off-road vehicles ready to whisk us away. Unlike the first few days, on which everywhere could be accessed by a standard vehicle, in Magystau it would be nigh-on impossible to get to some of the best sights without an off-road vehicle. It was very nearly impossible to visit one of our day six destinations even with off-road vehicles. We found out later that our drivers were not professional drivers, but in fact had been pulled in off the street in the days leading up to our arrival purely because they happened to own off-road vehicles. One of the drivers was a jeweller who had trained in Italy! They were very, very good though.
Our first stop was at a couple of yurtas that had been set up near to the sea. We were there to eat a traditional Kazakh meal, listen to traditional Kazakh music and watch some traditional Kazakh games.
A traditional Kazakh yurta. And a horse.
We were led into the first of the two to see how a traditional yurta may have looked, including several pieces of, very colourful, Kazakh handicraft. A favourite among many of those present, including myself, was a collection of what their creator called ‘Kazakh chandelier’s’. They were indeed very chandelier-esque; colourful woollen creations that dangled from the ceiling, lit up peferctly by the little light that entered through the hole in the roof.
A 'Kazakh Chandelier'
Next was a display of Kazakh horse wrestling. That’s right, horse wrestling. As in wrestling on the back of horses. The horses themselves don’t wrestle; though they looked like they would probably win in a fight with Hulk Hogan if forced. As I understood it, two competitors were meant to attempt to force the other to lift their backside off of the saddle on which they were seated. In actuality it looked like they both had their backsides in the air many times before the referee blew his whistle.
Take a look for yourself below:
If you can pick a victor out of that you understand the game better than I!
The second game we were shown was, for lack of a better name, ‘kiss chase’. But on horseback. The game is played between one boy, and one girl, with the boy aiming to catch the girl to give her a kiss, and the girl trying to catch the boy in order to hit him. The winner is whoever catches the other first. I don’t know about you, but when I was at school both parties normally ‘won’. The boy always kissed the girl, who inevitably hit him afterwards.
This was all followed by a lunch that was accompanied by traditional Kazakh music and singing. Once again we had beshbarmak, though this time we had the addition of shubat. Shubat, for those who don’t know, is fermented camels milk, and it is not nearly as revolting as that probably sounds. It has a sour yoghurt-like taste to it, with a bit of a tang. I couldn’t decide whether I liked it or not, though I think I would fall on the side of like, if pushed.
Two young ladies in traditional Kazakh dress. And me!
Oh, and did I say this was all by the sea?
The Caspian Sea
Once we had finished lunch we took a quick walk along the coast before hopping into our waiting cars and travelling for a few hours to reach Shakpak Ata. For me, the area around Aktau was a little dry and barren. Quite close to what I had expected Kazakhstan to be like before I arrived. Give me green and full of life over barren any day. As you travel across this section of Mangystau it becomes increasingly apparent that the primary source of income for the area is oil. At times the oil derricks seemed to stretch as far as the eye could see. In fact, it looked a little like a huge farm for giant robotic prey-mantises (prey-manti?). This is not to say that it doesn’t have its own, industrial, charm.
The further away from civilisation we drove, though, the more the scenery came into its own. It was still very dry and arid, but this is actually what made it beautiful. By the time we reached Shakpak Ata some of the rock formations were remarkable; particularly those that make up the exterior of the ‘underground’ mosque.
The walls of the outcropping of rock that the mosque is built into is honeycombed in an incredible fashion. I kept expecting giant bee’s to fly out of the holes at any moment.
The Shakpak Ata 'underground' mosque
Sitting in front of the mosque is an ancient necropolis, a cemetery, in which lie graves and mausoleums dating back hundreds of years. We had to be very careful where we stepped as many of the headstones had crumbled away into nothingness with the passing of time and so were difficult to spot.
The mosque itself is relatively small, a single room with four main areas and many carvings in the walls. In the rear of the mosque are some very large, deep stairs that lead to the top of the rock outcropping. At the top the view is huge. Vast. With the Caspian Sea as the perfect backdrop. Particularly under perfect, cloudless, blue skies. Like many of the best parts of Kazakhstan, due to the lack of infrastructure it is a nuisance to get to, but it is well worth the effort.
The view from the top of the Shakpak Ata mosque
Our time there had to end, as we had one more stop to make before heading back for dinner and much needed sleep. Next up were the, strangely named, ‘globular concretions’ at Torysh. Try saying that five times quickly.
They may well be one of the most unusual natural sights you are ever likely to see. Practically perfectly spherical ball of rock after practically perfectly spherical ball of rock. Now try saying that quickly five times! It is an incredible phenomenon. Scientists still cannot agree on quite how they formed or where they came from. Some think they may have formed around dead ammonites, others say that they have volcanic origins, while there are those that claim they were formed in glaciers over millions of years; and those are just three of the wildly different theories. The fact that they retain a certain mystery even now, though, only adds to the awe that you feel while standing among them. And besides, some mysteries are better left unsolved. Though one member of our group hit upon a popular theory, maybe they are dragon’s eggs like those in Game of Thrones!
Were the 'globular concretions' built around these ammonites?
The 'globular concretions' under the evening sun
And that was day five. We were lucky to be greeted by another incredible sunset on our way back to Aktau, though. And it is with an image of this sunset I leave you. Quite fitting I think.
Our beautiful sunset
Join me next time for Sherkala Mountain and challenging terrain!